Italy - Concluding Thoughts

These are the highlights of what I have learned and studied, yet it is not everything I saw or experience. I saw a whole breadth of history in this five week trip. I carefully analyzed the architecture of Italy through sketching as well as research and reading. I learned a great deal of what architecture was in the past, as well and what architecture is today, which left me with thought of what architecture could be in the future. I learned about the wholistic element of Classical and Renaissance architecture. Architects of the past created their definitions of ideals and expressed them in architecture through perfect proportions and harmony, from minute details to grand monumental scales. I have learned that architecture goes further than buildings. Architecture becomes the urban fabric, and through this we can see the influences of religion, government, and the natural world on how cities are designed. And when we begin to analyze further, we begin to see the intentions of the architects and why they chose to design the way they did according to their time and context.

By taking part in this trip, my biggest take away would most likely be developing a greater appreciation for the minds that take on the task of architecture because it is a compilation of analyzing, studying, and considering so many different aspects of the world. I think that it is important to look back at what came before us architecturally because these are the roots of what architects are designing today. Architects can look through history and decipher what things worked and what things did not. After returning home from this trip, I am more motivated to look throughout architectural history and beyond the architecture of the United States in my studies and my pursuit of architectural licensure, for it will help me learn more methods and techniques for my future career.

Rome

Days 23 to 25

The first few days in Rome were filled with adjusting to a new urban fabric as well as focusing on practicing my sketching skills and adding watercolor techniques. The first site visit in Rome brought us to Piazza del Popolo where I got my first tastes of the history of the city. After sketching, I came back to work on my watercolor techniques as well.

The next morning, we had our first workshop with an American artist based in Rome, Kelly Medford. We met with her at the Campidoglio to sketch and watercolor the piazza. She instructed us to sketch a series of one line drawings in which we do not pick up our pens from the page. I think this technique of sketching really helped me and my style. Throughout the trip, I thought my sketching style demonstrated more of a memory rather than a perfect and accurate representation of what I saw. The looser and shaky lines in this style enhanced the feel that these sketches I produced are blurred moments and memories of the experiences I had in Italy.

Later that evening we made our way to a tour of the Roman Forum. There we learned about the history, development, and ruin of the Roman Forum. We closed the day with the Colosseum. Compared to the Arena of Verona, the Colosseum was much grander, but in ruin. The Arena of Verona is still used for events and entertainment today. The Colosseum was still a marvel to look at. I could only imagine what it would have been like to see it fully intact at its grand scale. It was quite fitting to begin the first few days in Rome with one of its greatest monuments.

To see what was left of the levels of arcades was quite the sight. Here I practiced so watercolor technique with a water soluble pen. I focused on a mere moment of the aged architecture and gave it shade and shadow to model it and bring it depth, three-dimensionality, and life.

The following day we visited the ancient temple of the Pantheon. Here I sketched a composite of the plan of the piazza, an elevation study, and perspective study, and a detail. On this day, we also conducted a lighting analysis of the Pantheon in groups. Later that afternoon we visited Piazza Navona and the grand fountain, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, or Fountain of the Four Rivers. Here I sketched the personification of Asia and the Ganges River with the water soluble pen and watercolor technique.

Days 29 & 30

Nearing the end, there were still many sites to visit. On these days I visited the Tempietto, the proportional chapel designed by Donato Bramante, the MAXXI Museum designed by Zaha Hadid and filled with contemporary art and architectural exhibitions, the Jubilee Church designed by Richard Meier, as well as the Macro Museum, another museum for contemporary art. At the Tempietto, I practiced and implemented everything I learned from my professor to perform a composite sketch. It was composed of a detail, perspective view, and plan. Visiting the MAXXI Museum was another breath of fresh contemporary architectural work. Architecture like this serves as a testament to how far architects have come in their designs. Comparing architecture in the Middle Ages to now comes with striking contrasts and a spectrum of dynamics. Visiting the Jubilee Church was another contemporary piece architecture as Meier used bending forms with glass and light to compose an intriguing architectural work. At the Macro Museum, I could not stop thinking about how far art has come from the Renaissance to today. I learned that it all depends on time and culture to really understand the subjects of the artists and their intentions. I think it was good for me to see more contemporary work of art and architecture as the trip came to a close. It helped learning about the development of these aspects of the world over history and how everything comes full circle to the point I am at today.

Florence

Days 01 & 02

The first days in Italy were definitely ones to remember. Even after the flight, our segment of initial traveling was not yet done. Immediately after arriving at Fiumicino International Airport in Rome we set out for a train to Florence. In those few hours of traveling and finally getting settled in my apartment with my roommates, I can say that I experienced many different aspects of the Italian environment and landscape in such a short amount of time. On the train I was able to see a more modernized Rome, to the Roman countryside and greenery, all the way to the historic urban fabric of Florence. Jet-lagged from the flight, it is now pretty much a blur, but nonetheless, it was a great way to get a glimpse of what was to come. After quickly getting to know my apartment, my roommates and I set out to get acclimated to our temporary home of Florence. Our apartment was situated just south of the Arno River on Via dei Serragli, the major street connecting to Ponte alla Carraia. Before meeting for a group dinner, we quickly passed by monuments such as Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Vecchio, and Santa Maria del Fiore, also known as the Duomo of Florence. Later in the evening, the class met for dinner at a pizzeria called Osteria dei Centropoveri. It was my first day ever in Italy, but I have to say it was one of the best pizzas I ate in my five weeks there. We also had cheesecake for desert which was just magnificent. Having spent less than twelve hours in a totally different country, I was quite timid at first walking around the busy historic center of Florence. However, it only took me a few days to start walking around with ease. I think Florence was a great choice to start the trip in because it is a very walk-able city and easy to navigate and figure out fast. We were not only learning about the architecture of Italy, but also how to live in the country as well.

Day 03

After a few days of getting acclimated to the city of Florence, the class set out on the first site visit to San Mineato al Monte in the afternoon. Still a little shaken and awestruck by the scale and differences in the style and feel of the Florentine urban fabric, we took a bus and climbed to study and sketch this church on a hill. Here we began to practice the urban sketching skills we learned in the previous semester. This day was probably one of the hardest days I had of sketching during the entirety of the trip. But I used the techniques of finding shapes and finding geometries to aid in the process of on-site sketching. This was one of my favorite days because from that hill we got a vivid panoramic skyline view of Florence. Getting to see numerous monuments strike the skyline gave me a sense of place. The first few days it took me some time to adjust and believe that I was thousands of miles from home. I could not stop telling myself and my classmates that photographs do not do justice for any of the architecture in Italy in terms of scale. The monuments in Italy need to be witnessed firsthand to be truly appreciated.

Day 04

This day is a good example for a typical study day for us in which we met at one site in the morning, had a long afternoon break for lunch and leisure, and then met later in the afternoon at a second site. On this day we gathered and made our way to Certosa del Galluzzo in the morning for a tour and to sketch and study the cloisters that stood there. By utilizing the shape-finding techniques, and carefully walking off the measurements of the cloister, I was able to make a rough but proportional sketch of its plan. In addition to this, I began to study some of the details and scenes in the cloister. I think by carefully analyzing the plan and certain moments I could begin to understand the space architecturally with a Renaissance mindset.

Much of the work we saw in Florence dealt with the perfect classical proportions of the Renaissance in addition to Gothic deviations. Being able to walk upon such aged architectural subjects gave me a better understanding at the intentions of the original designers. Cloisters were included in monasteries like this one to be a part of daily life. Witnessing it firsthand, I must say that these cloistered spaces were almost always quite isolated and peaceful.

After a break, the class met at the facade of Santa Maria Novella, a Gothic-Renaissance church. We would visit this work again later in the trip to study the interior, but on this day we studied its Gothic facade. Here, I continued to practice finding the simple geometries to compose my sketch. I sketched here for about forty minutes. It was here that I realized how therapeutic sketching could be. Time passes by so quickly and I end up with a memory in my sketchbook. After sketching on this particular evening, I became more motivated to hone my sketching skills, continuously trying my best to implement and adjust accordingly to the advice and critiques my professor would give me. At Santa Maria Novella, my hand got better at the linework, but it was time to start thinking about creating contrast, depth, and three-dimensionality with shade, value, and shadow.

Day 06

On this day, I had the opportunity to witness Palazzo Vecchio firsthand. I had studied this palazzo before but I never truly understood or appreciated its scale until I stood beneath it. I developed a better understanding of how scale was used to demonstrate power and authority. The distinct levels distinguished by the levels of rustication were clearer than I had studied before. The crenelations also enhanced the feeling that this government building was fortress-like. I also learned that benches became parts of daily life on the fronts of palazzi in piazzas. The highlight of experiencing Palazzo Vecchio was definitely getting to climb the top of its tower, as I felt like I the city of Florence was mine to hold. The evening on this day was quite significant for me because we made our way to Via dei Servi to sketch a framed view of the Duomo. When I recall this day I think about how long it took for us to actually get into the Duomo. From the skyline sketch, to casually walking by, to sketching from the street, I kept getting glimpses and tastes of what was to come. It was definitely a process and a story of its own to finally experience the Duomo firsthand. But before I got to walk in, I had to analyze, study, and appreciate from the exterior. Even after returning to the states, I am still in awe of the grand and monumental scale in which the Duomo was constructed. I have previously experienced New York skyscrapers, but never a cathedral at this scale. I think of the towering heights of the urban fabric and how those are lengths are already much larger than what I am accustomed to. But to think that the Duomo towers them and even competes with the mountains of the skyline only enhances its grandeur.

Day 14

Here, we finally made our way up Brunelleschi’s Dome. I still find it unfathomable how this was engineered. To tower that high on that scale continues to amaze me. Before we ascended, we were able to walk around a museum displaying the glories of Santa Maria del Fiore, from details of its facade to its dome. I got to see many models demonstrating the intricacies of all the engineering and design of the architectural monument. Something as grand as this cathedral was and is the heart of Florence. It was definitely one of my favorite things to gaze upon in the city. The trek to ascend the Duomo was a story on its own. It was long and cramped, but I felt like I was walking through history. Even though it was a tough climb, the views at the belvedere were worth everything in the world. I find it most intriguing how different the dynamic of the urban fabric here compared to a view from the One World Trade Center in New York. From the Duomo, it felt warmer with the yellow ocres and burnt siennas of the urban fabric. It felt aged even though I could not see the patina became blurred. From the One World Trade Center, all I could see was glass and steel, and everything felt new. When I looked at the cities of Italy, I often compared their feel to the city of New York. I believe that the urban fabric of New York serves as a great testament as a modernization of what came before in cities like Florence.

Sienna

Day 17

Before leaving Florence for Rome, we had one more excursion. This one took us the the countryside city of Siena. Days started to get warmer and warmer. This city also gave us a change of pace in regards to scenery. In Florence we had mostly urban streets with some hills on the outskirts. Venice brought us a city on water. Sienna was a breath of a walled city in the hills. It was a tough day of sketching for me, but it was a great day overall. I appreciated the Gothic styles and brick masonry reminiscent of my experience in Verona.

The highlight of Siena for me was spending the warm afternoon in Il Campo, a grand open space, that changes in elevation. It was quite different from the flat piazzas in Florence that I had visited. The Cathedral of Sienna was also a crowning moment in my experience in the city. It contrasts the Duomo of Florence in many ways, most notably its High Gothic style with more spire-like forms. I will appreciate my time in Sienna as it added to the breadth of the landscapes I experienced in Italy.

Verona

Day 12

One of my favorite days was visiting the city of Verona. I had been assigned to make a podcast on the history and urbanism of this city, as well as give a presentation on one of its monumental architectural works, the Castelvecchio. I believe I appreciated this city the most because I studied it more thoroughly prior to visiting. I learned a great deal on the development of the city from ancient Rome to medieval times. It was interesting to see the urban fabric of the city firsthand knowing that the base of it comes from the gridded street system from ancient Rome. Architectural history excites me because I get to analyze how architecture has developed and changed over time. Having the opportunity to see monuments that I studied like the Arena of Verona, the Lamberti Tower, and Piazza Erbe made the visit all the more rewarding.

It was quite a rainy day, but that did not stop me from making sure I got photographs to remember it all. I think the highlight of visiting Verona was getting to present the history and development of the Castelvecchio Museum. It was the second modern example of Carlo Scarpa’s work that we got to see, in which he utilizes new and modern materials to enhance and preserve the history of the original work. It was quite interesting to see the scales of details of Scarpa’s work, whether it be framing windows or designing joinery. The Castelvecchio was a refreshing work not only in its modernity, but also its masonry. The tone of the bricks was consistent throughout Verona, reading and one wholistic city and urban fabric.

Venice

Days 09 to 11

Just when I was really getting to know my way in and around Florence we were getting ready to embark on a five-day excursion to Venice, Burano, Murano, Vicenza, and Verona. We indeed visited five cities in five days. Typical of the first half of the trip, weather was not very kind to us. We were battling against overcast and rainy days. However, it was fitting to get an overload of precipitation in the city built on water. Venice, although not my favorite city, offered a refreshing new scenery to my Italian experience. It was intriguing to see the contrast of the narrow cobblestone streets of Florence to the even narrower alleyways of Venice. Compared to Florence, Venice owned more bridges due to the veins of canals through the land. I even got the chance to experience the Rialto Bridge, the famous market bridge in Venice. Now that I have seen that, I could compare it to the market bridge of Florence, Ponte Vecchio. The highlights of Venice for me were analyzing, studying, and sketching the facades of San Giorgio Maggiore and Il Redentore. Venice’s water-oriented scenography increased the breadth of the environmental landscape and urban fabric that Italy had to offer. Even though my time in Venice was short, life there was still a striking contrast to the dynamic of Florence. I feel like I needed much more time to really get to know my way around Venice.

Another interesting difference was the methods of transportation. In Florence, pedestrians walked, used bikes, cars, and buses. In Venice, people walked or used the vaporettos, or water taxis to get around. My time in Venice also brought me a lot of pizza. Some of the best pizza in Italy came from a little pizzeria called Cip Ciap, right next to a canal and a small footbridge. Also on this excursion I had the chance to experience the brightly painted city of lace, Burano, as well as the quiet city of glass, Murano. Commuting by water taxi in the lagoons of Venice will always be a cherished memory. Another quiet city we visited was Vicenza, where I had the chance to experience some of Andrea Palladio’s greatest works. Most notable was that of Villa Rotunda, in all of its proportional glory. I think that being by the cities of waters prompted me to ponder most about the urban planning while considering so many waterways.