Days 01 & 02
The first days in Italy were definitely ones to remember. Even after the flight, our segment of initial traveling was not yet done. Immediately after arriving at Fiumicino International Airport in Rome we set out for a train to Florence. In those few hours of traveling and finally getting settled in my apartment with my roommates, I can say that I experienced many different aspects of the Italian environment and landscape in such a short amount of time. On the train I was able to see a more modernized Rome, to the Roman countryside and greenery, all the way to the historic urban fabric of Florence. Jet-lagged from the flight, it is now pretty much a blur, but nonetheless, it was a great way to get a glimpse of what was to come. After quickly getting to know my apartment, my roommates and I set out to get acclimated to our temporary home of Florence. Our apartment was situated just south of the Arno River on Via dei Serragli, the major street connecting to Ponte alla Carraia. Before meeting for a group dinner, we quickly passed by monuments such as Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Vecchio, and Santa Maria del Fiore, also known as the Duomo of Florence. Later in the evening, the class met for dinner at a pizzeria called Osteria dei Centropoveri. It was my first day ever in Italy, but I have to say it was one of the best pizzas I ate in my five weeks there. We also had cheesecake for desert which was just magnificent. Having spent less than twelve hours in a totally different country, I was quite timid at first walking around the busy historic center of Florence. However, it only took me a few days to start walking around with ease. I think Florence was a great choice to start the trip in because it is a very walk-able city and easy to navigate and figure out fast. We were not only learning about the architecture of Italy, but also how to live in the country as well.
Day 03
After a few days of getting acclimated to the city of Florence, the class set out on the first site visit to San Mineato al Monte in the afternoon. Still a little shaken and awestruck by the scale and differences in the style and feel of the Florentine urban fabric, we took a bus and climbed to study and sketch this church on a hill. Here we began to practice the urban sketching skills we learned in the previous semester. This day was probably one of the hardest days I had of sketching during the entirety of the trip. But I used the techniques of finding shapes and finding geometries to aid in the process of on-site sketching. This was one of my favorite days because from that hill we got a vivid panoramic skyline view of Florence. Getting to see numerous monuments strike the skyline gave me a sense of place. The first few days it took me some time to adjust and believe that I was thousands of miles from home. I could not stop telling myself and my classmates that photographs do not do justice for any of the architecture in Italy in terms of scale. The monuments in Italy need to be witnessed firsthand to be truly appreciated.
Day 04
This day is a good example for a typical study day for us in which we met at one site in the morning, had a long afternoon break for lunch and leisure, and then met later in the afternoon at a second site. On this day we gathered and made our way to Certosa del Galluzzo in the morning for a tour and to sketch and study the cloisters that stood there. By utilizing the shape-finding techniques, and carefully walking off the measurements of the cloister, I was able to make a rough but proportional sketch of its plan. In addition to this, I began to study some of the details and scenes in the cloister. I think by carefully analyzing the plan and certain moments I could begin to understand the space architecturally with a Renaissance mindset.
Much of the work we saw in Florence dealt with the perfect classical proportions of the Renaissance in addition to Gothic deviations. Being able to walk upon such aged architectural subjects gave me a better understanding at the intentions of the original designers. Cloisters were included in monasteries like this one to be a part of daily life. Witnessing it firsthand, I must say that these cloistered spaces were almost always quite isolated and peaceful.
After a break, the class met at the facade of Santa Maria Novella, a Gothic-Renaissance church. We would visit this work again later in the trip to study the interior, but on this day we studied its Gothic facade. Here, I continued to practice finding the simple geometries to compose my sketch. I sketched here for about forty minutes. It was here that I realized how therapeutic sketching could be. Time passes by so quickly and I end up with a memory in my sketchbook. After sketching on this particular evening, I became more motivated to hone my sketching skills, continuously trying my best to implement and adjust accordingly to the advice and critiques my professor would give me. At Santa Maria Novella, my hand got better at the linework, but it was time to start thinking about creating contrast, depth, and three-dimensionality with shade, value, and shadow.
Day 06
On this day, I had the opportunity to witness Palazzo Vecchio firsthand. I had studied this palazzo before but I never truly understood or appreciated its scale until I stood beneath it. I developed a better understanding of how scale was used to demonstrate power and authority. The distinct levels distinguished by the levels of rustication were clearer than I had studied before. The crenelations also enhanced the feeling that this government building was fortress-like. I also learned that benches became parts of daily life on the fronts of palazzi in piazzas. The highlight of experiencing Palazzo Vecchio was definitely getting to climb the top of its tower, as I felt like I the city of Florence was mine to hold. The evening on this day was quite significant for me because we made our way to Via dei Servi to sketch a framed view of the Duomo. When I recall this day I think about how long it took for us to actually get into the Duomo. From the skyline sketch, to casually walking by, to sketching from the street, I kept getting glimpses and tastes of what was to come. It was definitely a process and a story of its own to finally experience the Duomo firsthand. But before I got to walk in, I had to analyze, study, and appreciate from the exterior. Even after returning to the states, I am still in awe of the grand and monumental scale in which the Duomo was constructed. I have previously experienced New York skyscrapers, but never a cathedral at this scale. I think of the towering heights of the urban fabric and how those are lengths are already much larger than what I am accustomed to. But to think that the Duomo towers them and even competes with the mountains of the skyline only enhances its grandeur.
Day 14
Here, we finally made our way up Brunelleschi’s Dome. I still find it unfathomable how this was engineered. To tower that high on that scale continues to amaze me. Before we ascended, we were able to walk around a museum displaying the glories of Santa Maria del Fiore, from details of its facade to its dome. I got to see many models demonstrating the intricacies of all the engineering and design of the architectural monument. Something as grand as this cathedral was and is the heart of Florence. It was definitely one of my favorite things to gaze upon in the city. The trek to ascend the Duomo was a story on its own. It was long and cramped, but I felt like I was walking through history. Even though it was a tough climb, the views at the belvedere were worth everything in the world. I find it most intriguing how different the dynamic of the urban fabric here compared to a view from the One World Trade Center in New York. From the Duomo, it felt warmer with the yellow ocres and burnt siennas of the urban fabric. It felt aged even though I could not see the patina became blurred. From the One World Trade Center, all I could see was glass and steel, and everything felt new. When I looked at the cities of Italy, I often compared their feel to the city of New York. I believe that the urban fabric of New York serves as a great testament as a modernization of what came before in cities like Florence.